The Zen of Fish by Trevor Corson

Source of book: Borrowed from the library

From time to time, I read a book just because one of my kids checked it out and it looked interesting. This one was selected by my second kid - the one who loves Japanese food and culture. And sushi. 

The book is mostly about a class of students at a sushi-chef school in Los Angeles, particularly Kate, who starts out as a hopelessly bad (and inexperienced) cook. But the story that binds the book together is just one part of it. Corson takes the time to tell the history of sushi (which is both fascinating and very different than I expected - it has more in common with lutefisk than fresh cuisine) and also give details on the various aquatic animals which are served. Plus, there are sections on the history of sushi in America, sushi culture, the restaurant business, and giant Hollywood parties. It is quite a bit in one, but it actually works pretty well. 

Corson actually sat in on the classes he describes, so that part of the book comes from first-hand knowledge. Kate makes for an interesting protagonist. On the one hand, she is sympathetic, and it is natural to root for her to succeed. On the other, as someone who has been cooking since I was a kid, her mistakes are pretty horrifying. It just seems weird to me that someone could grow up and not know his or her way around a kitchen enough to get by. But, I suppose I was raised differently. (Seriously, some of this stuff my 11 year old is competent at - it just takes practice and experience.) 

While most of the students remain nameless, there are a number of memorable personalities. Toshi, who runs the school, is obsessive about correct technique and cleanliness - something my daughter, who has her food safety certificate, appreciates. Toshi’s assistant, Zoran, is unexpected. An Australian of Yugoslav descent, he is both jovial and demanding. One of the more interesting students is Takumi Nishio, who was once famous (in Japan at least) as a singer and actor. In addition to being the hardest working and most competent student, he is obsessed with Italian cuisine, which is unexpected for everyone. Teenager Marcos also gets some space in the book - he is interested in leveraging his skills to meet girls. 

Corson thoroughly researched the book, I must say. The information presented on everything from history to biology is just on the edge between understandable and scientific. Likewise, he writes about culinary technique really well, making it come alive while preserving accuracy. In particular, I found the descriptions of fish gutting and boning fascinating - I may have to try some techniques myself. Likewise, the section on Bluefin Tuna was enlightening. I was not aware of how much they function like warm-blooded creatures. 

I will also be a better-informed sushi eater now. Corson spends a decent bit of time explaining the different types as the students learn to make them. I did smile a bit at the rolls Takumi came up with: a “domino roll” with two square sections. And the classic “Russian Roulette Roll,” with the cucumber in one slice replaced with wasabi. Spin the plate and pick…

This was definitely a fun random read. I noticed that this book is also found under an alternate title, The Story of Sushi, so if you can’t find it as The Zen of Fish, try the other title. Trevor Corson also wrote The Secret Life of Lobsters, which our library system does not have, alas. I may have to look for a used copy somewhere.